![]() ![]() Select profile then click on the little down pointing arrow and see the beweilding options available. However if you want to get fussy, spend some time playing around to what the impact of different profiles. Many will find this the easiest choice since Photoshop won't nag you every time you open a file. Note by default Don't color manage is selected. Next open a few test images, then select assign profile. In version 12 go to Edit, Color Settings, just to see what some options are. You might have to look elsewhere then below. I'm using verson 12 from the CS5 extended 64 bit part of a master suite with over 15 applications. Why I'll never know, but Adobe loves to fiddle and move features around. My choice is Photoshop, mainly because it gives you so many options. Since many reading this are serious hobbyists or beyond what I suggest is first picking a default color space and application to be your control and default color space everything else is based on. However, a color model with no associated mapping function to an absolute color space is a more or less arbitrary color system with no connection to any globally understood system of color interpretation. What IS Color space? Swiped and paraphased from Wikipedia: A color model or abstract mathematical model describing the way colors can be represented as numbers, typically as RGB and CMYK color models. Easier said then done since each device typically has its own "color space" and thus the rub since it is rare to find two devices using the exact same color space. ![]() The general idea is to as much as possible "match" how colors look on your monitor, to hopefully "match" as much as possible hard copies from a home or commerical printer, on other devices like a tablet, played back on a tv and if burned to a DVD and so on. Many excellent articles on the web and also built-in Photoshop's excellent online help system on this juicy topic. It really boils down to WHAT you're trying to accomplish. Things have changed a lot to say the least. I've been an Adobe Photoshop user since version three, way back in the dark ages. ICC profiles and attempts at calibrating color space between various devices is another deep topic that often causes you to pull your hair out in frustration. If you must wait till at least there's a few hundred hours on the set so components have "burned in and stablized. I wouldn't try to calibrate any tv unless and until it is obvious something is off or you just might make it worse. I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it" club. ![]() Some out of work bozo charging you between $200-600 and he might just bring a little three year old Spyder and stumble through the process and also actually take your tv further out of calibration. If you think paying a "professional" to do a claimed professional calibration, guess again. If the meter is reasonably well precalibrated, hasn't sat on the retailer's shelf for months, been dropped or suffered any number of other shocks, then maybe you might tweak out a bit better picture. So the caution I'm suggesting is while products like the Spyder might suggest changing your settings and the actual result can be to actually move them further, not closer to specs, not closer. So retail products like the Spyder are little more than toys in spite what you might of heard in marketing hype. Sorry, good ones that are accurate cost between $700-$1,000. Calibration using a spectrophotometer is sorry, at best an ify if not near worthless process UNLESS you get a good meter. I recently purchased a Panasonic 65 inch 3D "smart tv", (outstanding picture quality in the plasma version) and in general I'm very happy with it. ![]()
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